Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Cathedrals and castles and museums, oh my!

I got up sorta kinda on time this morning and headed out for the Royal Mile (again).  I was intent on grabbing some breakfast and heading up to the castle.  However, I was distracted by St. Giles Cathedral


There was also a sign outside promising a café, so I headed in


Look, pretty carving over the doorway.  Anyway I found a lovely little café and got some porridge with apple and a cup of coffee.  It was a HUGE bowl of creamy oatmeal  with sliced apple on top.  It was served with honey and cream.  I scraped the bowl.  The coffee was kinda crappy, but I figured it was a good trade-off.  I should have gotten tea, right?

The interior had lots of lovely windows but, as a protestant church, it doesn't have much by way of ornamentation or statuary.  The building itself is pretty awesome though.


I liked the fact that the ceiling was painted blue and white


The vaulted ceilings were, overall, pretty impressive too


There was a bit of ornamentation by way of flags and such, but most of the pretty came from the windows


This is the rose window


And another window I particularly liked (probably because it’s purply)

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This is the baptismal font, which was kinda nifty.

There was going to be classical concert performed by a youth orchestra from Germany and they got there right at the time I decided to visit the ladies room.  Two stalls and about 50 teenage girls.  I was glad to finally get out of there

Then, it was finally up to the Castle


I met a nice couple from NJ and we traded photo taking.  I mentioned I was from NJ, but live in TX…and it ends up that they own a house in San Antonio too.  Small world. 

I stood in line FOREVER to get my ticket.  Back in 1998 I don’t remember having to pay…and I definitely didn't have to pay for the audio guide.  Times change.

Anyway, here are some miscellaneous photos of the interior




A lot of other things had changed too


This is Mons Meg, a medieval siege cannon that was inside the castle in a lower room last time I was here. I have no idea who that guy is, but I thought it was a funny shot

  
These are examples of the large stones Meg could shoot 2 miles back in her day


This is where American prisoners of war were jailed during the Revolutionary War (which is called the War of Independence here).  The rooms these were in were completely empty when I was here last.  Since then, they've worked on re-creating the rooms to look like they did back in the late 18th century.


There are some pretty cool interiors.  These are rooms that were refurbished for King James VI (or James I of England) when he returned to Scotland for his Golden Jubilee.  They are part of the castle attached to the room he was born in. 


This is the nifty ceiling in there


This Is the great hall, also dating from that time and still used for government functions today.


Pretty cool ceiling in here too


And there is a pretty impressive collection of old arms and armaments in here too


This is the interior of the teeny tiny St. Margaret’s chapel.  It is the oldest building still remaining from when David II first made this a castle. 


As a contrast, here are some cannon.


And the last thing before I left was to take another photo of the stairs I refused to climb. 

Of course I hit the gift shop.  I wanted a t-shirt, but they didn't have anything I liked.  I ended up getting a whiskey glass etched with the castle.  Looks like a gotta buy whiskey.

I headed to the National Museum of Scotland.  It was getting late (everything shuts down at 5 here) so I rushed through it.  I did spend extra time in the Egyptian exhibit (of course).  They didn't have much, but there were a few cool things.  Oh, there were mummies, so I was happy.

I didn't find Dolly, the cloned sheep.  She’s dead, but they preserved her remains and she’s on exhibit somewhere in the museum.  God Bless Taxidermy. 

I then hit the BEST gift shop EVER.  Why? There were things on clearance!  I got a cool t-shirt with a vintage advertising print about Edinburgh, a tea towel, and a coaster.   ALL half off original price. 
Then hit the road back.  Eating cheese and packing…waiting for Laundry to dry so I can get outta here by 10am.  Tomorrow is Inverness!

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

You know me and ruins

The Scottish Borders

Today I hauled my butt out of bed early in order to make it to my tour on time.  I booked a tour called “The DaVinci Code and Borders Tour.”  Not that I've read any of Dan Brown’s books…and I've only seen bits and pieces of the DaVinci Code movie, but this tour promised old churches and ruins.  Not to mention that I’d be experiencing an area of Scotland that most people don’t think of seeing when visiting Scotland, The Borders. 

I got there VERY early, which is a good thing.  I really didn't get lost at all, due to my following the instructions given to me by Google (I plugged in my earbuds this time and listened to the turn by turn). While waiting for the minibus, I noticed that we were standing by the entrance to yet ANOTHER cemetery.  I had a half hour, so in I went.

This was The Old Calton Cemetery.  I found some very interesting things there


This is the burial place of David Hulme, famous historian


Imagine my surprise when I came across this statue of Abraham Lincoln in an Edinburgh Cemetery.  It’s to commemorate the Scottish American soldiers who died in the civil war


It was overall, just a cool little cemetery.

When our tour began, it wasn't full, so I had room to spread out my stuff. I sat on the passenger side of the minibus so I wouldn't have to see traffic between myself and the view.  It ends up it wasn't necessary as we mostly drove on country roads and were rarely on busy motorways.  I decided early on not to try to take photos out the bus window, as I’d had so little luck in the past with that.  I’m not sure if I regret that.

It was a lovely, sunny day.  Our tour guide kept telling us how strange this is for Scotland.  A lot.  Our first stop was an overlook called Scott’s View as it was a favorite spot of Sir Walter Scott.


I tried to get a shot here of the River Tweed, which you can barely make out below and to the left.  There was just one big, huge lovely VIEW here.  There were yellow flowers everywhere.  A few were fields of early blooming rape seeds (for biodiesel), but most were gorse


They smell like coconut, but are prickly as all get out.

We then piled back into the minibus for a 10 minute drive down the road to see a monument to a Scottish Legend


William Wallace.  This statue is HIGHLY romanticized as the sword is huge, there is a weird dragon on his helmet and he’s wearing a kilt.  Wallace was from the Borders and, at that time, kilts were only worn by Highlanders. 

Then we were off to Melrose Abbey, the ruins of an abbey dating back as far as the 10th century.


Much like Glastonbury a couple of years ago, this Abbey was destroyed by religious reformation.  It was actually rebuilt after Edward II destroyed the first one.


It did have some interesting remaining architectural elements though


As well as some lovely views



There is a bit of the original ceiling left


And some other pretty bits


We know I love my gargoyles


REALLY love my gargoyles


Of course, one thing this abbey is still famous for is that the heart of Robert the Bruce is buried here.  The rest of him is at another abbey.

After a trip to the gift shop and a tea room for a quick lunch of a tuna sandwich and strange side salad thingie (sort of cole slaw over cucumber and tomato salad with apples), we were off to our next destination.  It was about an hour drive and our driver (rightly) decided to take a scenic route. 

We arrived at Rosslyn Chapel and I paid my admission.  No interior photos allowed, so we’ll stay outside.  I did wish I could take pics of all of the green men and other nifty carving.


It’s a teeny little place, which is likely because it was never completed as designed.  The St. Claire who first intended to build it, died before it really got very far underway.  That’s why the front has walls too wide to the side.


However, it does look a bit like a teeny cathedral from the side


And it had lots of cool gargoyles


And other nifty carvings

Although I was starting to fade, I took the short hike to Rosslyn Castle


Which was mostly in ruins


Other than the house that still stands there.  I think it’s still the home of the St. Clairs (they still own Rosslyn Chapel).


I had to cross this bridge to get to it, which you can imagine was the only way across to the hill the castle once stood on.

Short drive back to Edinburgh where we were returned to a spot very close to the Royal Mile.   As it was 4:30, I didn’t feel comfy trying to get to the castle, so I decided to visit the H&M I saw nearby.  Yep, bought stuff…LOL.


I wanted to show you the Edinburgh version of a police box.  Not very Tardis-like is it? 
Tomorrow, I have to try to jam a lot of stuff into a day.  Edinburgh Castle, a Museum or two, and packing up.  Oy veh.

Monday, April 14, 2014

Internet-less in Edinburgh

For reasons I'd rather not go into (because they were my fault and the result of my being a dingbat), I had to scramble for alternate accommodations.  I'm here but really don't have internet so I'm typing this on my phone.  I'll use this as a placeholder and upload my REAL post later.
In brief: good day. Did Holyrood Abbey and the Royal Mile. Too late for the castle so I'll do that Weds.

Update: REAL post

So today was my first whole day in Scotland.  After  the fiasco that was yesterday, I was glad to get into my normal travel routine.  Pick a tourist spot, go to it, explore it, visit the gift shop and spend money.  That’s how I roll.

However, one thing I did differently this time is I did not arm myself with printed maps.  My cell provider gives me free data in the UK, so I thought Google Maps would  be my new friend. Well, my new friend doesn't realize how directionally impaired I am.  Granted, it is partly my fault, because I didn't bring my earbuds and didn't want my new friend announcing directions (and that I am a hapless tourist) to the whole of the city…so I turned off the step by step audible directions.  That was a bad move.  I walked a mile in the wrong direction before I figured out that I was walking away from my goal…Holyrood Castle. 

I did eventually get there, if MUCH later than I’d planned. 


It looked much the same as I remembered, although this time bathed in sunlight. Last time I was here it was a blustery cold day in October and I was mostly alone in my adventure. 


This is a detail of the fountain in front and you can see some restoration has been done


This is the courtyard that greets you when you first enter  the palace.  Luckily, I did not arrive in the Summer, when the Queen is in residence.  No tours then.  However, there are no interior photos at any time.  Unfortunate, because some of the tapestries and artwork are awesome.  Mary, Queen of Scots chambers are fun, especially the one set up as a gallery.  Displayed unobtrusively is a cast of a scull, supposedly of Robert the Bruce. 

You can take lots of pics of the ruins of the Abbey though, which is fine with me.  You know me and ruins and religious architecture.  Combo! BONUS!!


The sunny day makes this look totally different than my last set of photos from my trip in 1998



Some of you may think the ruins here,where a window obviously used to be, looks familiar.  It is, if you've ever seen the portrait my friend Raine did of me


Some of the details are kind of sad


Some of them are kind of fun.  Skull and crossbones…teehehe


I really had to look for this guy as I had forgotten where he was.  I finally stumbled upon him.  I think this is one of my favorite architectural elements of the Abbey ruins.


Another good think about a visit in the spring are the gardens.  They were bare and depressing when I was here last and I didn’t see anything photo worthy.  Now, flowers are in bloom and it’s lovely


It’s all so green and pretty on the grounds around the Palace and Abbey.  The mountains in the background are a nice touch.


The trees are in bloom and the effect is just gorgeous


Just a lovely scene. 

After Holyrood Palace and Abbey I went to a gift shop outside of the grounds.  Trust me, the “official” shop was chock full of expensive china and plush pillows.  I wanted tacky fun trinkets.  I didn't exactly find that, but I found a map of Edinburgh in a little book, which also had a map of Glasgow on the back.  Also got my silver charm for my bracelet (a thistle) and a little something for a Munroe I know *grin*.

I then exited the front gates to be confronted by the new Scottish Parliament.  It’s a groovy cool building, very modern in its architecture.  Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get a good photo, because it’s best viewed from the air apparently.  I went in (like the Americans, my belongings went through and X-Ray and my person through a metal detector) and took a brief look around.  Very interesting inside as well, lots of curved lines and light wood.  Tons of windows too.  Now I did buy something in THAT shop.  I found a scarf in the Scottish Parliament Tartan, which had a gray background with purple and turquoise, very pretty.  Scottish Parliament also has a lovely, clean bathroom.

I took off down the Royal Mile and found it to be after 4pm.  I knew I wouldn't make the Castle as they stop admitting people at 5 and close altogether at 6.  But I tried anyway. 


This is a rather dark photo of the castle from the front.  I have to go back Wednesday, and I hope to be earlier when the sun is in front.


Here’s the front gate.
 

There are some lovely views from castle hill. Although most are full of cranes and scaffolding.  There is a lot of construction and restoration going on here.


There are also some nice military memorials along the edge of the parade grounds/parking lot.
Thwarted from my castle visit, I stopped in what claimed to be a tartan weaving mill, but ended up being a maze of a shops that I got a bit lost in (directionally impaired again).  After escaping that, I checked out the Scottish Whiskey Experience, which was the Scottish Whiskey Expensive Experience…especially when I wasn't interested in tasting whiskey.  Blech!

I found a pub for dinner and had fish & chips with a pint of ale.  It came with a bit of mushy peas, which I had never tried.  Not a fan.  I wasn't grossed out, but I won’t ever ask for them.  Green mush.


Here is a young man playing the bagpipes on the street.  He was pretty good…I gave him a pound.
There are loads of churches in Edinburgh, but it was after hours to visit.


I’m going back to this one on Weds (St. Giles).  They were closing when I got there so I only got to see a little.  You have to pay £2 to buy a “permit” to take photos in there, which is a great idea!  They can raise money from tourists without charging admission (which I think it’s crappy for a church to do anyway).


Just a bit down the road…


I had to take a picture of this pub for all Simon Pegg fans.  It’s a real pub in Edinburgh…LOL. (I found out later that this was the originally the last building at the edge of the original Edinburgh)

On the way back I stumbled upon a cemetery, you know me and my cemeteries!


I just love old cemetaries, don’t know why


I promise, only two photos…I’ll overwhelm you with them in Glasgow.


This is just a nifty statue with a Japanese cherry blossom tree over it.  The tree had a plaque in front of it claiming it was planted by the Duke of Edinburgh.  Okey dokey

I got a little turned around on the way back, but made it in before dark.  I even stopped at the grocery store for some Ribena.  It’s a blackcurrant juice drink that I LOVE. 

I think I got a bit of a sunburn today…in SCOTLAND!!  I did this two years ago in England too.  Yep, I get sunburns in the UK. 

Bed now.  I have a tour booked tomorrow for the Borders. 

Sunday, April 13, 2014

I'm a DUMMY

I'm in the Glasgow airport PAYING for WiFi so I can book another property in Edinburgh.  It was totally MY fault (and here I was being so proud of myself for my extreme planning and organizing).

I'll tell you all about it later.  I have to finish arranging my booking and hop a train.  Fun times.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

It's Travelin' Time Again

Time for me to start bitching about the teeny tiny keyboard on my netbook, but I do have free WiFi in the DFW airport (thank you AT&T) so I won't bitch too much.

Can't get hold of the owner of the first rental I'm staying in...I may be calling my my co-workers tomorrow.  Fun times.

Still, not too much drama so far.  Only thing I think I forgot is tissues, although I did remember sinus medication.  Wonder what the movies will be, and if I will get tea and crumpets in the middle of  the night (as I did last time I took British Airways).

One negative comment about BA...I could not check in online last night and choose my seat.  This is because their system doesn't communicate with American Airlines (the first puddle jumper from Austin to Dallas), so I have a crap seat.  They also do not let you reserve your seat when you book...like most airlines.  Well they will, but for a price.  Seriously?  Me no likey.

Anyway, thinking of getting a snack before takeoff...see ya in the UK.