Austria Christmas Markets - Photo album

All the photos in one place.

Austria Christmas Markets - Day 12 Back to Vienna...Eventually

So my train from Innsbruk to Vienna was supposed to leave at  11:14 this morning.  When I opened up my ticket app, it told me that part of the run of the train had been cancelled and that the train would be running late.  Unsure what this meant, I got to the station early and asked a nice lady at the ticket counter.  She explained that the origin of the train was supposed to be from Munich, but nothing is moving out of Munich, so anouther train is being sent, but it will be late.  Late ended up being after twelve thirty.  

I was supposed to change trains at Salzburg and go from a local to an express.  However, I was expected to make this change in 5 minutes with significantly more bags than I started out with.  I found an unassigned seat and took a five hour local train ride.   I had several different people who sat next to me for brief periods of time.  For the last hour, my seat buddy reeked of cigarette smoke.  I almost suffocated.

Made it to Vienna and got checked in to the hotel. Same clerk, but he didn't remember me.  He had a better day today and was much friendlier.  I was determined to hit a market for the last time.  Back to the Belvidere.  I had Kasespetzele and Apfelstrudel Punsch.  Decided to mix it up a bit from the gluhwein.  

Back in my room, everything rearranged in my luggage...gotta leave early tomorrow.  Bye for now!

Austria Christmas Markets - Day 11 Krampus Run Innsbruk

I had nothing really planned for today as I had seen all of the markets and poked around the old part of the city quite a bit.  I really wasn't psyched up to go to museums or palaces this time as my plans had all included Christmas markets.  So, I slept super late and spent time re-packing stuff.  

I decided to go back to the mall because I wanted new PJs.  The ones I brought were super cheap ones I got at Wallyworld with the plan of tossing them after my last night here. But, they were part of the reason I had trouble sleeping...cheap, unbreathable polyester thaat made my legs sweat.  I had seen pajamas at Primark, so decided to head back.  Found a pair of reasonably priced cotton PJs and declared victory.

There was also a large grocery store in the mall, so I decided to check it out.  My favorite coffee was BOGO, so I couldn't resist.  Also got some packets of vanilla sugar and marzipan, baking staples here, but not at home.  Oh and a ginormous bag of Malteasers plus a sandwich for dinner.

I headed back to the hotel to drop off my loot, ate my sandwich, and headed to the Old Town Christmas Market, which is where the East Tyrolean Devils, Krampus and Perchten, would be making their run later on in the evening.

The square was packed with people waiting to catch a glimpse of Krampus.

First you heard their loud bells, not lovely jingle bells like reindeer, but a large loud cacophony of something like an overlarge cowbell.  Then they came...shaggy looking devils.  I think they leave off the large horns for safety reasons?  The crowds were really close and dense...

And these guys moved fast.  I really didn't get many clear photos as it was dark and they were speedy.  Lots of blurrs.

I did get a bit of video though...

This one is super creepy.  

After the crowd followed them down to near the children's stage for some sort of performance, I gave up. I couldn't see a thing ad all  could here was clanking and a bit of screaming.  So I headed down an alley and found a strudel cafe.  It was a welcome break.

I then took a last walk around the Old Town Market, which was now mostly deserted.  Parents took their kids home for a night filled with nightmares, I guess.   I then headed toward the market down the street on Maria Theresen Strasse.  I finally got to go into the little shop of Christmas ornaments in the middle of the market, where I dropped some Euro.  Once outside, I heard a familar noise toward the other side of the shop.  I walked over and found...Krampus!

These were more what I was expecting with horns and glowing eyes.  A couple had whips, but not switches, which I suppose are easier to carry.

They posed for selfies, which struck me as kind of funny.  No, I did not...

But I got some pretty good photos of these guys and put some change into the box that ole Red Eyes there was hauling about.

They then headed off down the street, at one point chasing one of the kids for a bit.   It was funny.

I'm back to the room, all ready to catch my trains tomorrow (I have to connect in Salzburg).  I have my fingers crossed.

Austria Christmas Markets - Day 10 Not Graz..More Innsbruk

So, last night I happened to check my email and found that I got a notice of a change to my rail ticket in the morning.  The original train I was booked on was cancelled and I had been rebooked on an earlier train.  Of course, this made it so that I didn't sleep well due to stress.  Woke up naturally shortly before my alarm at 6am.  Checked my email and, sure enough, all trains between Innsbruk and Graz were cancelled.  I also found out that just about the entire rail system had ground to a halt and nothing was running until Tuesday.  

I scrambled and booked a ticket to Vienna for Tuesday (the original day I was supposed to go there anyway, but from Graz) and used all of my credit to book an extra 3 nights where I was staying in Innsbruk. So this means, we're going to have to skip Graz, spend extra time in Innsbruk, and pray that trains are back to get me to Vienna in time to catch my flight.

After all of this, I decided that this all happened for the best...

After getting everything settled with my hotel (I booked a slightly better room as that was all that was left on the site where I originally booked, but told them I was ok with staying where I was as I had settled in), I decided I needed more groceries.  Now, this is Austria and it is Sunday.  Just about every thing is closed.  I found an open grocery store on Google Maps that was a 15 min walk, so I grabbed my empty backpack and set out.  The sun was shining brightly, but there were still lots of low-lying clouds to the west.  Remember the snow covered hill behind those brightly colored buildings.

Now, to the east and north, the skies were clearing.  I was gifted with views of the Alps on my way to the grocery store, which was on the Innsbruk University campus (likely why it was open).  

I got back to the hotel and the young lady at the front desk who had helped me earlier when I arranged things for my extended stay, told me she had found that there are webcams at the location of the mountain overlook where my last Christmas Market was located.  I had told her earlier that I hoped that visibility would clear up today.  I went up to my room, put stuff away and checked out the webcams.  It was pretty much what I had seen in person, clear everywhere but the west.

Housekeeping knocked and I decided to head out to check out the mountain.

I took the funicular up to Hungerburg station and saw lots of wonderful things - charming chalets, trees covered with snow, panoramic views.  Prepare to be photo-bombed!

Things started clearing up to the west as well.  Brief glimpses of the mountain behind us popped through.

Two views out over Innsbruk in two different directions.  

The famous Ski Jump (remember the light display in front of my hotel.  There is the real thing near the center.

More Innsbruk

More moutains appearing behind us.

This is the market.  Pretty small, but the local fire department sold good gluwein and I bought a handmade Christmas tree ornament from an old lady who spoke no English.  We managed to muddle along with my broken German. 

When it started to get dark, I rode back down and had a lovely conversation with a couple of ladies from Scotland.

On my walk back, I went through the other Christmas Markets.  The clouds had cleared and the mountains to the west were visible behind our colorful riverfront buildings.

This is such a lovely view.

Could kind of see the mountains while walking through the market too.

 

Going through the Old Town Christmas Market, there were musicians playing from the balcony at the Goldenes Dachl.

One last shot of the lights over the street with a trolley.  

Back at the hotel.  Time for rest. 

Austria Christmas Markets - Day 9 Innsbruk

So, this day was the one I was most looking forward to on this trip.  My day in Innsbruk, the capitol of the Tyrol.  My father lived somewhere in this area for a few years and I was always interested in visiting. I was not dissapointed.  Yesterday, I didn't have high hopes as the only area that I had explored at all was the newer part of the city.  My hotel, while the best I've stayed in so far this trip, is not in the Innerstadt, it is just very close to it (much closer than I originally thought).  I was worried that there wouldn't be much old city charm here...I was wrong.

The rain yesterday transformed into snow overnight and coated the city in about 3 inches of fluff.  By the time I left my hotel, it was still flurrying, but the roads had been cleared and it was slightly warm enough to turn the ground to slush.  This was the kind of weather that plays a bit of havoc with Google maps.  It turned me around a few times until I saw something interesting down an alley...

THIS is the Innerstadt, the Inner City, full of Tyrolean old world charm.  Pedestrian only streets and very odd decorations of hanging elves and giant dolls.  Througout the day, I'd stumble upon Children's story 3D decoratios on the sides of buildings.

But there were also tons of signs letting you know where to get pretzels or new glasses.

I came to the end of a street, turned a corner and there was the Old Town Christmas Market in the old town square, beneath the Goldenes Dachl.  The Emperor used to watch over activities in the square (much like this market, I would think) from his balcony beneath that golden roof.  This markety was busy and bustling.

The architecture around the square was a delight.  I love that the Austrians aren't afraid of colors.

I wanted gluwein, and that meant I needed to eat something.  I spied some delicious looking potato pancakes and I boringly chose sour cream this time.  Yes, those are chives.  Yes, it was yummy, I need to make potato pancakes more often. 

Food accoplished, so I was able to partake of gluwein.  I forfeited the deposit and kept the mug.  They came 4 colors (black, white, green, and red) I was debating on whether to keep one and decided that I really only liked the black one...so If I got one randomly, I'd keep it.  

I wandered around for a bit.  This market spills out from the square onto some side streets.  Lots to see.  I believe this is where I bought my pinecone shaped beeswax candles.  

I just found this funny.

Also on this square is this clock tower, all that remains of the old city hall (Rathaus).  The rest was destroyed in WWII.  A new city hall was built in a new location.

I love how Starbucks and McDonalds are trying to fit in here. Walk down this street away from our first market...

And you stumble upon the second, Christmas Market Maria-Theresien Strasse.

It's smaller than the first, but very cute.  As you will see later, it comes to life at night. 

It took me forever to find that this is Spitalkirche.  I just thought the pink clock tower was cool.

Headed off down another street and located the third market, the Family Christmas Market at MarktPlatz.  It does have rides for the kiddos and that big tree in the middle is sponsored by local Swarofski Crystals. 

And time for more gluwein.  This cup I got my deposit back for.  This market was nice too.  I found a chimney sweep Christmas ornament, something I am always on the lookout for. 

By this time, I had decided not to go to the furthest market, as I was getting a bit tired.  It was also not walkable (so I would have to hop a trolley) and on top of a mountain.  Although another funicular ride was not a problem, t was very foggy and there would be no view...the whole reason to take that trip.  I decided that the next market would be the last one for the day.  

This was the only market on the other side of the Inn river, The name of the city "Innsbruk" means "bridge over Inn."  Even on a foggy day, the buildings are cheerfully colored.

This is the other direction, looking as cold as it really was.

After a short walk, I found the last market, Christkindlmarkt in St. Nikolaus.  It was a little market in a little square in front of a church. 

Very neghborhood/local vibes. Not much by way of shopping but lots by way of food and drink. Cute, but not for me.

Back across the Inn...

It's time for lights to come on.  Back through the Family Christmas Market.

The Swarofski tree changes colors, BTW.  I had already seen everything here.  So, after I peeped the lights, it was back to Innerstadt.

Nighttime brought out the performances for the kids.

And some fun lights.

The chandeliers over the street leading to the palace (Hofburg). 

And the other direction.  Funny, the chandeliers in Vienna were over the high end shopping street.  Here this street is packed with souvenir shops.

Back to see the market lit up. Pretty...

Back to Maria-Theresien St. to see the pink clock tower lit up

One last look back at the Goldenes Dachl.

This market is a lot more happening at night.  More lights, more people

There is a band playing carols.  I remember hearing them in my room the night before and I realized that this was closer to my hotel than I thought.

One last look back here too.  Google maps was behaving and had me turn down a pedestrian passageway, that ended on a familar street.  It was SO close to my hotel.

This is in front of my hotel.  Did I mention I saw people walking around with skis on their shoulders all througout the day.  Yep, Innsbruk.

I had cheese and crackers that I bought last night for dinner in my room.  Not sure if I mentioned that I bought a tea advent calendar, and enjoyed tonight's (a Holiday spice blend) with my dinner.  

My stuff is mostly re-packed in my new suitcase and I'm ready to see Gratz tomorrow.