I did move slowly, so didn't have time to make coffee first. I thought I'd grab some on the way...but nothing was open! Luckily, I was pretty awake. It was crazy windy this morning which wasn't a problem until I hit Pea Island where the sand dunes loom over the highway. I now know what it's like to drive in a sandstorm. There were places where the roads were covered with a layer of sand...curiously where heavy machinery was parked. I was a little concerned about driving the bridge over Oregon Inlet...but Ruby (my Jeep) handled it just fine.
As I approached Buxton, I could see Hatteras Lighthouse flashing away in the distance. It was so cool.
I actually got to the ferry early and had to sit in the car for about a half hour before they loaded us up...right as the sun was rising. Unfortunately, I was on the wrong side of the ferry, they directed me to park so close to the side that I couldn't get out of my car without scratching my door, and I was going backwards. I was a bit concerned about motion sickness...not usually a problem unless not facing forward.
We did turn a bit
And the sun rose over Hatteras Island
The few remaining clouds from our crappy first half of the week looked like pink cotton candy floating over the sound
And it was finally a new day. The 40 minute trip just flew by.
This was my first glimpse of Ocracoke...because we were going BACKWARDS...urgh. We disembarked quickly and it was more of the Hatteras National Seashore for quite some time. I was looking forward to breakfast, but I couldn't find any place that was open that early. I just drove straight to the other end of the island and parked in the lot for Tourist Information (there is another ferry at the other end). I looked on my Crackberry to find the lighthouse and headed in that direction.
I did pass it and had to turn around. Unlike the other 3 lighthouses, it's not surrounded by a park. Ocracoke Lighthouse is still a functioning lighthouse and is not open to the public. In fact, the old lightkeeper's house is a private residence now.
I think this lighthouse has a special place in my heart because it looks like a little, fat lighthouse. It's actually the second oldest lighthouse still in use in the US.
So I headed back to Ocracoke Village and found a place to eat. Creekside Cafe is a cool little open air place with a friendly staff. It looks out over the main drag and you can do some people watching as you eat.
I got the crab omelet with cheese grits, a biscuit (with honey on the side), and lots of coffee. The omelet was stuffed with crab, onions and cheese and was so rich I could not finish it all. I finished most of my grits and completely devoured the light and fluffy biscuit.
After finishing, I puttered around and visited some of the little shops. I managed not to spend much money at all. Parking was difficult to come by and everything was way overpriced. Don't get me wrong, the craft shops were fun...but nothing incredibly unique.
Around 10:30, I headed back to the ferry and stopped at the Pony Pasture
This is the pasture closest to the road, and I was lucky enough to get there at feeding time. What was totally exciting for me...see that brown pony in the back? She is a mare from Shackleford Banks! I finally got to see a Shackleford Banks pony...sure, on Ocracoke Island...but I'm not picky. She was brought over for breeding purposes as most of the horses in the pens are related.
There was a pasture down a nature path where I found four more ponies. I have to face it that this is the only way I'll see barrier island ponies. I have no luck finding them unless they are penned up for me.
I wandered across the street to check out the beach...didn't stay long. Headed back toward the ferry and was one of the last on board the noon ferry.
This time, I could get out of my car and I was able to take more photos. This is looking back at the other two ferries doing the noon run.
The trip seemed longer on the way back, but we finally docked and I was the absolute last one off. I checked out the tourist trap mall next to the station, then took a wrong turn and ended up exactly where I wanted to be, which was the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum. I have to admit that, after the maritime museum in Beaufort last year, this was a bit of a disappointment. Still, there were a few things to recommend it. There was a mini Queen Anne's Revenge exhibit that probably would have been more exciting if I hadn't seen the main exhibit last year. Also, everything was poorly lit, making it hard to read.
There was the original lens for the Hatteras Lighthouse, which was pretty cool to see. It is missing a lot of prisms, but one doesn't see an oil-burning lighthouse light every day.
This particular maritime museum's claim to fame is the exhibit of artifacts from the USS Monitor (remember learning about the Monitor and the Merrimack in elementary school?). These are bits of oil lamps.
There was and extensive civil war collection (which could not be photographed) as well as scuba gear, and fun facts about marine salvage that washed up on the shore. My favorite was the cargo container of Doritos chips that washed up on the beach in Frisco. The bags kept out the water and the chips were enjoyed by the residents.
I could not find a thing to buy in the gift shop.
Back on the road toward Hatteras Lighthouse. Stopped at a couple of shops...only bought a funky face Christmas Tree ornament at Red Drum Pottery. When I got there Wes was pulling handles for mugs and we chatted a bit. I also learned he plays in a bluegrass band that performs in the other side of the building the pottery is in.
Driving along, saw some kiteboarders in the distance...so I pulled over and watched for a bit. There were actually quite a few of them out there...but most were too far out to see very well.
I finally got to to the lighthouse...
Look familiar? Yes, we saw this one before, on Sunday. I actually went all stoked to climb up only to find that there is no more climbing until April. It appears, I should have gone on Sunday. If you look closely, it appears that this lighthouse needs a bit of a paint job as some of the black stripe is missing.
It was actually harder to shoot this today in the bright sunlight, but I managed to get this very cool shot. Trick of the light...LOL
Now, you may not be aware of this, but this lighthouse was actually moved to this location in 1999 as it was close to the eroding shoreline.
I went to see the original site of the lighthouse, which is marked on the nearby beach
It's a ring of stones that were part of the original foundation. They've been inscribed with the names of the lighthouse keepers of the Hatteras Light. You can see how close to the waterline this site is.
This give you an idea of how far it was moved. Quite the engineering feat.
I hit the road again as I wanted to explore the beach area around the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge near the Oregon Inlet Bridge. This area is totally fascinating from the road.
This is the area where the dunes come right up to the road and where I was in the sandstorm earlier that morning...it just seems almost alien. There is a parking area right before the bridge where a ton of big dump trucks and heavy equipment is parked for moving that dune off the road. It also appears to be a hot fishing area as evidenced by the pickups with rod racks attached to their grilles. I parked and took off across the giant dunes.
Once I got over the dunes...more alien landscape. I've never seen so much flat beach before. It was quite the hike to the waterline.
Which dropped off sharply and waves literally crashed into the beach. It was still very windy and the water very choppy.
I also got to see this cool brown pelican doing some fishing. I was going to wait for the sunset and shoot it over the sound...but I was getting tired, so I decided to head back.
I did catch some of the sunset going over the bridge. I think I like this bridge better than the Tappan Zee.
It was too late to revisit the Bodie Island Lighthouse...but it's wrapped up in scaffolding...so no big loss. After that, it was a pretty quick ride back to the bypass and back to Kitty Hawk. But I was hungry.
I was trying to decide what to do for dinner, when I pulled into the condo complex. A sign at the strip mall next to the complex entrance caught my eye. How could I have missed I Got Your Crabs Steam Bar and Seafood Market? I went in and seriously thought about some freshly steamed crabs...but I was tired and not up for beating up crustaceans. I got some fried fish and cole slaw and called it a night. It was really good and I may go back tomorrow for the crabs.
Tomorrow I need to squeeze in the Wright Brothers Memorial and a bit more shopping. If I do really well, I may hit Roanoke Island and Manteo...who knows?
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