One thing I am quickly learning about Viennese coffeehouses is that your food comes quickly, but they leave you alone for a looooooooooooong time after that. You practically have to grab their arm to get your check and pay them. It's odd to someone used to the American slow to serve, but quick to kick you out afterwards.
Anyway, was on my way to Kartnerstrasse....the main shopping district. No cars on this road, it's all foot traffic, so I wandered around window shopping. My first goal was to get to Stephansdom (St. Stephens Cathedral). Yes, I was planning shopping...but churches first. And there are plenty of them all over the place.
Here is one I just happened to notice down a side street. When I finally got to Stephansdom, it was undergoing renovations (of course) and some of it was covered up. Still, there was plenty to see.
The front had already undergone the restoration, so It was looking quite lovely. The majority of the cathedral is in the Gothic style, although the main tower is from the Renaissance and the Baroque makes an appearance too. But I loves the Gothic...
And that roof is just awesome! Gotta love those colored ceramic tiles. And you get an idea why restoration is necessary in this view.
Here's a restored bit in the midst of a facade in dire need of restoration.
Lots and lots of Gargoyles...and I took tons of photos of them. These were particularly mean looking and a bit crumbly. There was all kinds of nifty stuff on the outside of the cathedral.
Like this painting....where Jesus looks merely perturbed...and I think he is being fitted for his crown of thorns.
When I entered, it was time for Mass, so we couldn't go all the way in. I spent some time behind bars before being allowed anywhere near the altar.
Still, the view wasn't too bad. There isn't much of the original glass still in the cathedral as it was badly damaged during WWII. Some of it is actually in the Vienna Museum, which I had seen a couple of days ago.
Lots of Gothic splendor to be found throughout. Carvings like this are EVERYWHERE and most still are painted.
I really liked this guy. I did not climb up to the tower or go down into the catacombs (where some early Hapsburgs were interred) because it involved the payment of money...LOL. There was plenty to see for free.
Including plenty of Baroque splendor in many of the minor altars. I checked out the gift shop, decided against a rosary or religious medal...and headed out to shop.
Still, there was lots to distract
These horse drawn carriages were lined up outside of the cathedral to take you on a tour of the old city. I almost got run over by a couple of them.
And another cool building to check out. I actually found a gift shop with sterling silver charms for my charm bracelet (they aren't as common as they used to be) and I got one of Stephensdom. I was torn between that and a lil Vienna coat of arms. I got Christmas tree ornaments at the Österreichische Werkstaetten. And I headed into H&M for a couple of tops and a scarf (I love that place and there isn't one anywhere near me in the US.
Enough shopping....so I decided on more Klimt at the Albertina. Headed off on the Ringstraβe in that direction and ended up in the Burggarten (another public park once part of a palace grounds) much sooner than I thought I would. Apparently, my apartment is close to an awful lot of things.
Here is a Mozart statue I found there. I am giving up on finding Falco and this is a better choice anyway. So, the Burggarten is on the grounds of the Hofburg...the main palace of the Hapsburgs. Lots and lots of museums are in the Hofburg now...and I didn't even cross over to the other side of the palace. The Spanish Riding School is on the grounds (where the famous Lipizzaner Stallions are trained.
This is the side that faces the Burggarten. Lots of people out as it was another lovely day. They were strolling about and hanging out at the cafe that was behind me when I took this photo. Behind the cafe is the Albertina, where another Klimt exhibit is underway.
Not much is the way of famous paintings in this exhibit. Most of it was sketches of studies for his more famous work. The poster of the exhibit is a part of an illustration he did for a magazine (the illustration is called Fish Blood). There were a couple of other pen and ink drawings, but most were charcoal sketches. I'm glad I saw the other exhibits first, because it put a lot of these studies in perspective. I hope to have time to go to the art history museum tomorrow to see his early mural there because a lot of the studies were for that. I will definitely to the The Secession to see the Beethoven Fries (it is right next to the Nachtsmarkt).
There were also some Munch pieces that I liked and several of Degas' drawings and paintings of bathing women that were particularly lovely. They had a pretty good selection of modern art there...mostly sketches and paintings.
Bought a couple of Klimt things at the gift shop...but they really didn't have anything with the sketches in the exhibit other than the really heavy and expensive book. The young woman at the register was German and questioned whether I wanted the English version of the little Klimt book I bought...apparently,. I fooled her with my accent on my "guten tag." LOL.
Left the museum and began to wander a bit again...and it started to rain. This was a bummer because I had been planning to see the free show at the Opera tonight. They have a free show on a giant TV screen outside every night. It wasn't raining too hard...so I decided to treat myself.
To a piece of famous Sacher Torte at the famous cafe at the famous Hotel Sacher! Es war ganz gut (it was pretty good). I also had a Wiener Melange, which is half coffee, half hot milk with whipped cream. I decided to take advantage of the delay in the bringing of the check to hang out and soak up the atmosphere...and I had a second Melange. It was thundering when I first entered the cafe and I was hoping to wait it out.
Got my check and headed out into the rain. There was a slight break and I was hopeful...but it started up again. When I walked past the Staats Oper (opera house) there were people there with their umbrellas. I had no umbrella or way to dry off the seat...so I headed back to my apartment. I am a little damp, but no worse for wear.
Well tomorrow is Strauss' Der Rosenkavalier, which I'd rather see than the Boris Godunow performance tonight anyway.
Tomorrow is the flea market at the Nachtsmarkt and more museums...and Strauss. I'd better pack a lil bit tonight.
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