Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Day 2: Hittin' the Museumplein

Ok, where to start...let's start at my late awakening. Darned super comfy bed that actually has no support so I sleep hard and wake up with a backache. Seriously, it's like sleeping on a huge marshmallow...but my back is not happy with it. So, I woke up early, but couldn't haul ass outta bed for a good long time. By the time I got up, fed myself, showered, and figured out what I was going to do (I still wanted my Amsterdam card, but decided not to go back to Central station for it).

It was almost noon by the time I left the flat. I decided to head right to Museumplein as I figured out that I could get the card at a gift shop there.  Good ole tram 16/24, it gets me everywhere I wanted to go so far and it got me there too.  Got off the trolley to find the I Amsterdam sign:


Of course, there are tourists climbing all the heck over it.  Behind it is the Rijksmuseum, our goal for the day. Got my card..headed past this closed museum (bummer).  I will get to see much of the collection tomorrow when I head to the Hermitage.


While heading to my destination, I saw this.  It appears to be more of a hostel though (from all of the young people hanging out around it). 


The Rijksmuseum, the National Museum of the Netherlands, has *just* reopened after being closed for renovations.  I got lucky with this one. The building itself is fascinating



Designed in 1885 by Dutch architect Pierre Cuypers, it has an interesting mix of Gothic and Renaissance elements. I found a few interesting details to surprise...


This little beauty was hidden away in a corner.  I also think the brickwork is kinda fun. Then there are the kind of details that I usually like to photograph


And we're not even inside the museum yet!  One thing I did realize is that just about every time I have to wait in line to buy a museum ticket in Europe, it's HOT.  I was sweating by the time I picked up my audio guide.  Then the tour was on!


This is the BIG deal of this museum.  Rembrandt's Night Watch.  We all know I'm not a big fan of the Rembrandt's artwork, but that's just personal preference.


Of course, no art museum is complete without at least one of his self-portraits.   I only saw one this trip, there were more...but they were etchings and I somehow managed to miss them. Of course, this is the Netherlands, so there was a  buttload of paintings from the Golden Age.

Not sure if you knew this about me, but I'm not a big fan of Dutch "Golden Age" painting.  Too dark and dreary, for the most part.  There are some standouts...but not a fan.


I really wish I wrote down the name of this artist...a Dutch Impressionist.  This was hanging near the 3 Van Goghs in their collection.  I didn't bother taking photos of any of them...there are likely better ones in the collection of the Van Gogh museum.  However, speaking of standouts of stuff I don't usually like...


This is an early Piet Mondrian...before the crazy color block stuff that I just cannot stand.  Yes, I have definite opinions about what I do and don't like when it comes to art.  I've gotten into arguments about Mondrian before and nobody can convince me that the color block stuff is genius. I do kind of like this windmill though...LOL.

The museum also has a pretty good Medieval and Renaissance collection.  Head of John the Baptist anyone?


I just love the juxtaposition of the biblical story set in the wrong time period.  Also, the gory head and the serene Salome...


I had to share this more than slightly disturbing painting which gives the infant Baby Jesus the washboard abs of an adult bodybuilder.  Weird, weird, weird...

While not usually a fan of religious art, I did find this particularly moving...


This grieving Madonna is just do very lifelike and moving...I just couldn't stop looking at her.  

Now, on to some of my favorite things...a few pieces of Delft pottery.  I'll try not to overwhelm you here as I did take a ton of photos.  A few highlights:


A little tile plaque.  I love Delft tiles and wish I could afford to put up a backsplash made of them in my kitchen.  I found this scene particularly lovely for some reason. 


This is one lovely jar and looks a lot like the Japanese porcelain it was designed to emulate.  This one is very intricate and I fell in love with it.


There were a few whimsical pieces as well.  I loved this viola.  Supposedly, it worked too.  

The Dutch have always had ties with Asia.  They opened up the first trade routes and many of their wealthy merchants made their fortunes trading with Asia.  The museum also had a very good collection of Asian art.  I've always been a fan

Nice display of some kimonos.  I've always found these to be works of art.  But you know where my heart lies...pottery! And they had a bunch.  Don't worry..just highlights. 


This is an amazing carved redware teapot.  I see a Buddha!


This is a pen holder with a gorgeous cobalt blue glaze.  Not only am I in love with the glaze, the form is just so simple and elegant.


This was a particular favorite of mine.  I've always been fascinated by Japanese tea bowls.  This is a particularly nice example, and I am intrigued by the glaze.  I don't think it's raku...but I could be wrong, it does show some signs, but I couldn't seen it well enough to tell.


Last, but not least, this is a celadon glazed incense burner.  The carving on this is just exquisite!

One last photo...

A couple of ivory carvings...I think the little one is a Netsuke.  I love those lil guys..

I was hoping to try to get to a couple of museums today, but this one was just soooooo big and I know I missed some areas.  At this point, I was pooped..so I headed to the cafe for a break.  You know how I love the museum cafes.  I was seated next to a very nice couple from Denver and we chatted for a bit.  They were retirees, originally from Korea and they were spending a couple of weeks touring Europe.  The wife was very chatty and showed me her purchases from the gift shop and the husband was mostly quiet for awhile...he opened up when we started talking about his cat allergy...LOL.

I had a cappuccino and a delicious apple cake.  Then it was off to the museum shop where I managed to keep myself in control.  I did find a Delft Christmas tree ornament in the shape of a bird, so that's one required souvenir done (the other is a silver charm for my bracelet). 

When I left the museum, it was getting chilly and was VERY windy.  I was fine with the sweater I was wearing, especially after sweltering in the gift shop, but I think I'm some sort of freak.  Everyone was bundled up like Eskimos.  I don't think it was below 50 degrees.

Back on the tram, back to the apartment and another grilled cheese for dinner (this time the goat cheese). 

It's late now, and I need to try to get a lot done tomorrow...cross your fingers!

No comments:

Post a Comment